Visiting Ireland: An Extended Q&A Session

An American friend whose family is planning a trip to Ireland asked my advice and here are all the questions and answers that resulted, so I thought I’d share it with you! There is probably someone else out there planning a trip over here to the Emerald Isle and maybe this can help a bit. If it does help you, I’d love to hear from you with a comment. If you think I overlooked something, also comment so future visitors can know what’s what.

Is it easy to visit Dublin or Cork (or both) without a car?

Flying into Dublin, there is are affordable, clean and safe shuttle buses into the city of Dublin. It’s so easy, I wouldn’t even consider a taxi. To explore beyond Dublin, the train may be the best method. The Luas is great for getting around Dublin.

Irish Rail costs about €40 each way for Cork/Dublin routes. Trains are frequent, clean, safe, and have free WiFi. Heuston Station in Dublin has the trains Cork. Tickets are discounted if purchased ahead of time online.

Cork’s train station is called Kent and is walking distance to city centre but there are taxis and the 205 bus too. That bus costs €1.70 per person and runs from the station to the other side of the city, passing most hotels, B&Bs, and such. Taxi drivers must use meters in both cities.

Getting to and around Cork is fairly easy. Here’s a whole blog post about it. If flying into Cork, it costs about €15 to taxi from the airport to city centre. There is also a bus. If you rent a car, be aware of parking options.

What about visiting with a car?

You won’t want to drive in Dublin too much. It is confusing and bustling and lots of weird one-way systems and pedestrian lanes in the city centre. And there are lanes in Ireland that are just for the bus to use and taxis so stay out of those unless you’re turning. Those lanes are marked ‘Lána Bus’ which is Irish for ‘bus lane’. (Special thanks to Maire O’Sullivan for sweetly correcting my Irish on this one)

Is West Cork a neighborhood of Cork City? I’ve heard it is beautiful.

West Cork is a region of County Cork west of Cork City. It is the most southwestern area of the Republic and noted for its coastline and cuisine. I recommend West Cork, especially if the weather is good. It is Ireland’s answer to California (without the heat). Beaches, food producers, fields, and very scenic. The pace is just a little slower (much slower than Dublin). We go there at least once a month even if just for lunch and it is very accessible from Cork City and Kenmare/Killarney for a day trip. Though buses do service towns in West Cork like Skibb, this is one area it is nice to have a rental car so you have flexibility to stop wherever you wish.

Do you recommend any particular hotel in Dublin that is central or well-located?

My favorite places to stay in Dublin are The Gibson (hip and located across from the O2) and The Brooks Hotel (classic and well-kept near St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton Street). But Dublin is a city and, as such, there are many many hotels I’ve never heard of so do some research and ask friends who’ve been there. Porterhouse is a nice spot to get a pint.

Any suggestions for restaurants in Dublin?

If you get the chance and advanced time to make reservations, Chapter One is a VERY nice restaurant (I have yet to get in since reservations are essential and I never plan ahead enough when going to Dublin). Eden is nice too. Dunne & Crecenzi is a sentimental favorite because we dined there on our honeymoon. Avoca on the top floor of their shop at the end of Grafton is delectable. There’s also one on the M7/N7 near Naas.

Where do you recommend we call home while we’re in County Cork?

There are a few places. Depends where you want to be and where you want to explore.
In Cork City Centre, my Dad likes the Imperial Hotel in Cork City Centre. It is central and there are NO hills between that hotel and the city. Clarion is also good but three blocks farther from everything and not in an interesting direction. There are many B&Bs along Western Road near UCC (University College Cork). The Gresham Metropole is supposed to be very nice as well and it’s on MacCurtain. Slight hill heading into town from there unless you exit out the hotel’s lower level which is on the Quay level. There is also River Lee Hotel and Jury’s on Western Road between UCC and city centre.
Outside of Cork City Centre there are options like Ballymaloe House near Cloyne or a selection of boutique hotels and B&Bs in Kinsale. Look for a B&B and odds are they will take good care of you and have a nice breakfast. Though most hotels have lovely breakfasts as well.

What is the name of the new highway connecting Dublin and Cork?

You want to get on the M7 then switch to the M8. If you drive on the M50, you need to pay a toll (€3) by phone or online by 8pm the day after you drive on it. The M50 is like Dublin’s beltway but the ocean gets in the way on the eastern side.

Assuming there are no major events, how long should it take roundtrip?  Are there peak traffic times on specific days of the week to beware of?

Driving to or from Dublin from Cork takes 2.5 hours. I’d say maybe Sunday nights, Monday mornings, Friday evenings would be the busy times for anyone who works in Dublin but wants to spend a weekend in West Cork since it will be ‘summer’ here.

All-Ireland GAA senior men’s hurling or football. Getting a ticket to an All-Ireland GAA Final is like getting a Super Bowl ticket. I got two a few years back and felt like I’d won the lottery, which I think is how tickets are acquired for fairness in the regions competing. You DO NOT want to be on any road leading to/from Dublin on the day of an All-Ireland match.

Where do you recommend stopping along the way, if at all?

I made you a map of the three places I would most recommend stopping along the drive. Choose A or B, not both (I recommend A then C). A = Avoca (an Irish store with hand-crafted and inspiring items in delicious colors, there’s also a store in Dublin city but the one on the highway is MUCH bigger with a cafe AND a restaurant). B = Kildare Outlets (it won’t be cheap even with outlet prices but there is a Starbucks and a Dunne & Crecenzi). C = Cashel (Rock of Cashel is an old religious destination which may be tough for mobility challenged but the town is darling and the view is lovely from the pubs or cafes plus it has a little touristy vibe so it has a nice energy to it in the summer). All of those places have parking near a place to sit and have a cup of tea or bite to eat. Check for pay parking any time you park anywhere that isn’t a shopping mall. Here’s the map link: http://goo.gl/maps/Cx30

 What is it like to travel between Kinsale and Cork by car?

The roads are small but do-able. I did it on our honeymoon and just took it slow in the afternoon on a weekday when it wasn’t too busy. There is a paid parking lot in the centre of town in Kinsale which is central. I recommend going to lunch at Fishy Fishy (I like their monkfish or their chicken green salad) then stroll around the shops.

Where do you recommend we eat (keeping in mind that I will likely be the only one in the group who likes to experiment with food – the rest are meat-eating Americans through and through)?

In Kinsale,… Jim Edwards, Fishy Fishy and Blue Haven are good. Almost anywhere will have a steak or chicken goujons (aka fingers) on the menu and you can ask for chips or salad on the side as filler. I’ve found that many places undercook their meat more than in the States (probably because in the States they have to reach a minimum before serving or have you sign a waiver, at least some of the spots I’ve gone to) so Medium is more like Medium-Rare. The hamburgers will be different and not as good because of the technique to grind the meat. It is more of a minced texture.

In Cork,…

My favorite place to eat real food in town is Fenns Quay. I love the fresh Irish ingredients and the fact that the specials change daily. They have one of two burgers in Ireland we’ll eat. The steak that is out of this world. They are open 8:30a-10p Monday through Saturday which is also why it’s a fave because I can get an early breakfast. I couldn’t stomach eggs or beef while pregnant last year but their chef/owner Kate managed to always make the perfect eggs Florentine that went down like butter. They are in the running for Best Scone in Ireland (Goodalls competition).

I highly recommend Electric for tea/coffee, soda/beer, or sandwich/soup lunch. They have WiFi and great natural light. It’s two blocks from the Imperial Hotel on the South Mall. I go there twice a week with my Twitter meetup group and my knitting friends because it has a nice relaxed feel with great light so even on rainy days I feel like I’ve gotten some sunlight. You can have a real restaurant meal upstairs (reservations through Facebook). Grab the tables in the far back on the ground level for a view of the River Lee. They are in the running for Best Scone in Ireland (Goodalls competition).

Nash 19 is on Princes Street and though there is little to no natural light in the place, they make delightful potato cakes (it’s like a scoop of mashed potato in a crispy crumb crust), creamy porridge, and yummy breakfast treats.

Definitely you MUST go to Long Valley Pub for lunch one day and have a ‘corned beef salad sandwich’ or ‘toasty’. SOOOOOO good. And very affordable. Long Valley is on Winthrop between Oliver Plunkett and Patrick’s Street. Across from there is the GPO (big city post office) and the Hi-B Bar (a notorious pub where people get thrown out for doing things like talking on mobile phone or wearing a necktie). They are great landmarks too.

Spiced Beef is a speciality in Cork so give it a try while you’re here. You can buy a package of it cooked and sliced from Durkins in the English Market (A MUST, even the Queen of England visited there last year). The package is small and costs €4 but get one or two there (by the Fountain that has no water, not the places with all the eggs) then some cheeses from On The Pig’s Back and a loaf of their bread and go across the Grand Parade to have a picnic on the benches in Bishop Lucey Park if the weather is nice. Honestly, I used to travel a lot and my Dad still does and he says that one of the best things after a few days of eating in restaurants is to have a light meal outdoors. I’m sure you’ve found that too in your travels. It kind of allows your brain and stomach to take stock of its adventures and rest up for the next round.

There are so many good places in County Cork, including Ballymaloe House, Longueville House, …

What are Cork’s “must-sees” and “tourist traps to avoid”? (e.g., I heard everyone pees on the Blarney Stone now, so it’s best not to kiss it.)

That rumor about peeing on the Blarney Stone has been going around for ages and is probably not true because anyone going into the Castle grounds must pay so why spend good money to pee at the top of Blarney Castle when they can pee at home, right? Let alone, if they were drunk and breaking in they’d have lots of stairs to climb to get up to it and by then they’d have probably peed themselves laughing. Also, it doesn’t smell like old pee which it would no matter how much you clean it. Having said that, it is touristy.

The saddest thing is that most people come to Ireland on tour buses and only see big things like Cashel, Blarney Castle, and Newgrange (near Dublin). They miss the real experience so it’s wonderful you’re driving yourselves! There was an article two summers ago about how businesses in Blarney are in trouble (were and still are) because tour buses come to Blarney and park in the Blarney Woollen Mills parking lot and go only there and to the Castle, missing out on the cute little town. That happens to other towns too. The most important recommendation is one you probably already know from your travels and that is to get off the main street when looking for a place to eat or shop because the pace is slower and more care is often taken with the experience not just the food.

Cork Must See List:

• St Anne of Shandon is an Anglican church with a stunning view of the city if you climb the bell tower. A ladder is involved so it may not be for everyone.

• English Market (on the day you drive back to Dublin, you could pop in there before you go and stock up on food for the car so you can stop someplace interesting instead of out of hunger)

• If you like whiskey, check out Jameson Distillery in Midleton (20 minutes from Cork City Centre, ample parking) for the tour (there’s a post on my blog about it and how to get chosen for the free whiskey tasting after) then repark closer to Farmgate Cafe and go there for lunch. Great spot. It is the sister restaurant to one in the English Market (upstairs) but easier to access since no stairs at this one and more spacious with wider selection.

Look in the sidebar of thisblog and there is a map, click through and you can see all the spots I’ve mentioned (or most of them) pinpointed. I made the map myself so it is accurate-ish.

Visiting the Trevi Fountain in Rome, Italy

Legend says to throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain so you will return to it one day. Visitors flock to the fountain to view the remarkable 85-foot high (65 feet wide) example of Baroque art, designed by Nicola Salvi. There is a little ice cream shop adjacent to the fountain that has a yummy selection so you can stroll around and enjoy a sweLegend says to throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain so you will return to it one day. Visitors flock to the fountain to view the remarkable 85-foot high (65 feet wide) example of Baroque art, designed by Nicola Salvi. There is a little ice cream shop adjacent to the fountain that has a yummy selection so you can stroll around and enjoy a sweet treat while trying to work your way to the front of the crowd.

Read more of my reviews on TripAdvisor.

Here and There: My 250+ TripAdvisor Reviews

As many of you know, I write a lot of TripAdvisor reviews. Until now, they’ve only been accessible on TripAdvisor but I wrote them so I decided why not have them here on my blog too. After all, most are about experiences I’ve had since becoming an expat in Ireland so it is certainly on-topic. I’ve added a new category for these posts but will also use other categories as appropriate.

You can read HERE about how The Times (London) took notice of my reviewing and others like me in a recent article.

A Very Active 39 Hours in Amsterdam

This isn’t a play on the NY Times series titled 36 Hours in… but the actual time we spent on a stopover in Amsterdam on a recent trip back from the States.

We chose to fly via KLM and Schiphol airport in Amsterdam because we had heard good things about using them while traveling with infants and children. They provide diapers, formula, baby food, bibs, kid’s activities, and such on request as part of the travel experience (i.e., no extra charge). Of course, the best part was that during our outbound layover, we discovered Schiphol has a baby lounge. Yes, can’t you just picture little babies resting in velvet banquets while sipping milk martinis and using free WiFi? Well, it’s not that kind of lounge and I’ll admit the adult food options at Schiphol leave me hungering for frites and pancakes. It is a haven of peace and ideal for regrouping. LB was getting tired and though he was a delight on the flight from Cork, he needed a feed and a nap to keep his good mood going. Unfortunately, he’s a social baby so if there are people and interesting noises and cool light fixtures, he is sometimes too distracted to eat. But the subtly-marked baby lounge (beside the kid play area and by a library) is an oasis. Enter the generic door and hear Peter and the Wolf on a loop with soft lighting, pastel stripes on the back wall, and several round curtained ‘cubicles’.

On the left, there is a wall unit with changing mats and bath-sized sinks. Paper towels and soap are provided. This is ideal for a baby that is soothed by a bath or in case of a mess (you know what I mean).

There is also a microwave gadget to warm bottles! Our LB likes his bottles chilled though so we didn’t use it.

We did, however, find our favorite cubicle and tuck in to have a feed. Next thing you know, the bottle is empty and baby and I are both asleep. A solid 45-minute nap was all he needed to keep his positive outlook on the world (and for me to keep mine).

Meanwhile, hubby went to get us lunch (tuna sandwich)! That one nap for LB meant that he was not overtired when we took off on our next flight and he could stick with for normal daytime nap schedule that day. But that starts to get into how to travel with a small baby, which is another blog post entirely. Don’t worry, I’m already writing it! Now, back to our 39-hour stopover in Amsterdam.

We landed early in the morning after a red eye from the States and were tired. Even LB was not his usual giggly self. We immediately collected our baggage, went through the passport stamping process, and taxied to the hotel. The public transportation options are great in Amsterdam and we’d taken that before but with us so tired and only 39 hours in town, we wanted to make the most of our time and a taxi costs €38-48 (higher if you get a van taxi).

We arrived at the hotel and decided we needed food. But first, maybe just rest my eyes for one minute? Two hours later, LB and I rouse from our cuddly nap and brave the sunshine to find food. Hubby was being so patient all that time! We stayed at the Eden Hampshire Hotel Americain (can’t remember what the current name is but it is centrally located, clean, and pleasant). We opted for a BIG room and they put a crib in there with soft cotton bedding for no charge. The trick with the mini bar fridge (for bottle storage) is that you cannot remove anything to make room for bottles or you are charged for the mini bar item that is removed. Technology.

Here’s a photo of the outside of the hotel. It is a stone’s throw from the Amsterdam Apple store and the landmark Bulldog (it’s a coffeeshop). I’ve not gone into either but they are handy when navigating or asking directions.

The hotel has a renowned restaurant but we opted to get out and about. But here are photos of it because when I walked in it made me feel like I should be meeting Hastings and Poirot for a cup of tea. That’s a GOOD thing in my book.

Having a basic understanding of the layout of the city and having favorite neighborhoods from our previous visit, we set out for Jordaan. First stop, Pancakes! at #38 on Berenstraat. It’s a neighborhood spot that makes the most of its small space by using egg-crate noise softeners on the underside of their tables and decorating with a light-hearted touch. I had my favorite Dutch pancake, which is apple and cheese. They used an Edam and a pink apple. Delectable and light with a crunchy layer on top. Hubby had something with ham, cheese, and chicory.

Bowls of keychains and toys line the counter by the register and they’re quick to hand them out to keep younger customers happy. We witnessed a waitress give a new toy in-package to the toddler at our table so he’d be too busy playing to object to forkfuls his mother was helping into his mouth. This pair was kind enough to share the table with us and didn’t blink when LB spit up all over himself. Gotta love parenthood! And for everyone who praises me for always being so prepared and on top of things, I’ll admit I didn’t have a change of clothes for him on-hand.

After a quick change for LB from gross onesie to swaddled in my fleece jacket, we went strolling in search of a place that sold children’s clothes. We found a great spot that also sells women’s clothes. We went to several hip kids stores actually and LB has some new clothes to look stylin’ in.

It seems like Amsterdam not only has few vacant retail units but the ones that are filled express personality.

Then there’s the little matter of an afternoon snack?

And where would a trip to Amsterdam by without a visit to one of those places they’re famous for. You know what I’m talking about. You know, a cookie bar. What? They’re not famous for cookie bars? It’s coffeeshops? And they don’t serve coffee? Seriously? I don’t believe you. So, back to the cookie bar because that IS where everyone should go when visiting Amsterdam. We went to Melly’s Cookie Bar and I chose a Dutch Almond Cookie and a… (anyone want to guess?) …hot chocolate. Hubby had a conical cookie filled with sweet cream and a cappuccino or something decadently caffeinated. He is much better at managing jet lag as a result of his relationship with the coffee bean.

I had an afternoon nap too but managed to extract myself from the bed for dinner. One thing to do while in Amsterdam if you’re a foodie is to enjoy a traditional Indonesian rijsttafels (like Indonesian/Dutch tapas). We did this at Puri Mas. Coconut is a prevalent ingredient so be aware of that if you don’t like it or have an allergy.

Day two we set out in search of food but had a few stops along the way.

Tesselschade-Arbeid Adelt is a charming children’s shop one block away from city centre from the Apple store in Amsterdam. Charming hand knits and crafted items that are great gifts and heirloom worthy.

Turns out it is a guild of women in The Netherlands who hand craft things and sell them. They’ve been around since 1870! Even better than handmade things? Handmade fair trade things! No, it’s not as expensive as you’d expect.

A basket of Dachshunds. One of them had to come home with me. I chose a navy one with a pale blue jumper. Her name is Lucy after a friend’s Dachshund. Wish I had gotten an orange one too so they could keep each other company.

Here are more goodies. Mmm, hand knits!!!

And speaking of the Apple store, here’s a photo of the historic building from the outside.

If you are into dental hygiene or want to encourage your child to brush his or her teeth, definitely pay a visit to De Witte Tanden Winkel at #5 on Runstraat. This little shop has a toothbrush ferris wheel in its window display and carries toothbrushes, toothpaste, dental floss, and dental hygiene products. Want flossers? What kind? Seriously, there are several. This is also our favorite spot for choosing toothbrush holders (like the one I got Q). I have a pink hippo but wanted to get another so I can use one for traveling and one for home. Each has a suction cup on the back so it adheres to a mirror easily and holds your toothbrush. If you travel a lot and stay in hotels, it is nice to have something out of the way of housekeeping so they don’t need to move things to do their clean-up. If you’re not near this shop though, take heart because some animals are available from Amazon.com.

Shortly after  The Pancake Bakery opened, we were there! Because one pancake meal wasn’t enough.

I always get the same thing (again, all three times I’ve been there). Gouda and green apple pancake and French onion soup.

It is around the corner from Anne Frank’s house. Nice if you need a meal after waiting in the queue.

Couldn’t miss a chance to go to my favorite spot for a bit of domestic indulgence is Kitsch Kitchen at #8-12 on Rozengracht.

It carries things made of plastic, little goodies, household items, cookbooks, paper lanterns, wallpaper, pulls/knobs, bags, and dishes! Yes, dishes!

If it also sold argyle socks, garden gnomes, and fish dishes, I’d never leave! Thankfully, they don’t sell those things… yet.

This is where we bought our nephew Q an awesome toothbrush holder that is a Triceratops. That is his favorite dinosaur. Being an awesome aunt, I make it my job to remember these things and even drew one on the mailer when I sent it over to him. They also sell amazing paper lanterns, toss pillows, rugs, wallpaper, and have a wide selection of oilcloth.

This reminded me of something I’d see in Young House Love. Sherry over there has a thing for ceramic animals. These are drawer pulls, hooks, or whatever you want them to be really. I would love to get the triceratops for Q but what would a toddler do with such a thing? Would be fun to get two and drill them on either side of a wood bucket and use it for crayons & colored pencils or a little toy catchall. Especially if the bucket is painted boldly (think pink deer heads with yellow matte.glossy striped bucket). If someone does this, please share the link in the comments?

I didn’t see until we were paying and ready to leave there is a small sign to the side of the register with a camera and a line through it. Big oops! I was respectful though (no flash, no faces, no staging of items). Oddly, no one said anything to me in spite of the big DSLR looped around my neck. They didn’t hesitate to scold me for possessing a camera once in Vienna.

Have you ever had the souvenir that got away? Well, this trip it was a paint roller from Kitsch Kitchen that has a faux wood-grain effect. I stared at the basket of them for several minutes trying to devise a way to fit it in my already overfilled luggage then said a sad goodbye. I had dreams of using a dark gold paint and rolling it on the blackout curtains in LB’s room to complete the nursery’s Enchanted Forest theme (yes, there are gnomes and even a dragon). Did I mention it was €19.95 on sale 50% off? The squirrel and hedgehog hooks are cute for the design of his room too. But I’m pining for the paint roller. Get it? Pining? *Collective groan at pun* Seriously though, I am. Next person going to Kitsch Kitchen then to Cork City, I’ll give you the tenner plus a batch of baked yummies (Croissant Monkey Muffins, cupcakes, or Chocolate Chip Cookies) if you bring a wood-grain paint roller back for me.

We then went exploring and quickly decided that we should eat more so we remembered the words of our KLM stewardess (sorry, flight attendant), ”Winkel has the best apple pie in Amsterdam.” So we went!

Winkel at Nordermarket has a pie crust over their baked apple goodness that more closely resembles a cookie than a crust. Good hot chocolate too.

Very friendly staff and a nice bar inside that had a beer on tap that my hubby has never seen on tap anywhere. I was distracted trying to change LB’s diaper and outfit in a tiny bathroom stall (it seems I have a new superpower) or I’d remember the beer’s name. Maybe he’ll comment with it. They serve other things too (besides apple pie and hot chocolate), here’s the menu:

We wandered around most of the afternoon and enjoyed admiring the canals? Around each corner is another stunning view.

We even got to see a barge trolling the canals retrieving lost bikes and shopping carts.

Now there is one great place to go for croquettes in Amsterdam and everyone will tell you it is Eet Salon Van Dobben. Around for decades, this deli-meets-soda fountain style restaurant has croquettes that melt in your mouth and thin slices of deli meats piled atop a soft roll that you can adorn with mustard for a sandwich. Nom nom nom. I always (you know, all three times I’ve been there) the roast beef and we split some croquettes (which are made with beef not pork, woohoo!).

Of course, don’t miss the chance to stroll through the Flower Market. When I say stroll, I mean stroll – no bike riding allowed in this pedestrian area.

Though we had wanted to do an excursion out to see the tulips or visit a cheese factory, we decided that having a baby with jet lag was reason enough to take it easy and sure Amsterdam is a short flight from Cork so we can go another time. We went to Henri Willig across from the Flower Market instead of a cheese excursion and got to taste many cheeses and even bought a fun cheese knife (checked luggage material). But for anyone wanting it, day excursions are available for layovers or those staying in the area. Some of the companies running them are: Amsterdam City Tours, Viator, and Great Amsterdam Excursion Company.

I know this was a very long post. Now you know why I sometimes don’t write posts about our getaways. Even just 39 hours someplace has this many photos (actually more), stories, and adventures. Please comment if you like this or try any of these places and it may just encourage me to write posts like this more often.

Reviewing my adventures on TripAdvisor landed me in The Times today

The Times ran an article today written by Daisy Greenwell (if you haven’t read her articles, you’ll like them since she writes about food fairly often and in a cultural and lifestyle sense) hat discusses online reviewers and their approaches, roles, and perspectives on the process and websites themselves. Throughout this post are screenshots of portions of the actual article.

Now that the piece is published, I’ll tell you all about how it came about.

A few months ago when I was in the final days of my pregnancy, Ms. Greenwell contacted me to enquire about my role as a Top Contributor on TripAdvisor. With over 280 reviews, I guess that’s something to be proud about. It’s also something I don’t spend much time dwelling on. Trips happen and while I’m busy writing about it for my blogs, why not whip up a review too? It’s only fair since I use TripAdvisor information to help plan the adventures in the first place. So back to me being very pregnant and on the phone with Ms. Greenwell… She interviewed me and I answered her questions honestly. I think I gave birth within a week or two after that so talking on the phone was just my speed at that point in the pregnancy. I kept quiet about her article until today because it’s her scoop to share, not mine.

Photo by Don Moloney for The Times. Taken at Electric on South Mall in Cork City.

Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, she asked about sending a photographer out to take my picture. Me? Post-pregnancy me? With my son’s age still being counted in weeks, I am not feeling my fittest but professional photographers bring out the best in us, right? Hopefully. They even sent Don Moloney, a professional photographer, to photograph me in seven or so poses to choose to run with the piece. I waited and hoped a photo would look good. I guess it must have because one friend didn’t even recognize me. Provided, the ponytail makes a difference.

I was relieved when the interview was shared in a straight-forward manner, giving little chance for misquotes. Honestly, I was worried I would somehow come across as a ruthless reviewer who seeks out opportunities to ruin businesses with harsh ratings. Trust me, I’m not. I think anyone who knows me will laugh at that worry now that I’ve voiced it. Of course, I also worried about that photo. Should I have worn a necklace? Did the post-pregnancy weight show? Were my Tracy Anderson DVD workouts helping? Would I shine through as the person I am in spite of the fact I was faced with a photographer (usually I snap my own portraits with my camera’s self-timer feature, like I did for my Twitter profile pic).

Want to read my reviews on TripAdvisor? Go right ahead. I’ll warn you though, some a short and some are long with no consistent review format being followed. If I go to a place that doesn’t give much of an impression, I only mention the part of the experience that made an impression. The boring things that every restaurant or hotel offers/has/does are skipped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s it. And my boss is asking me to make him lunch now. He’s so good at encouraging me to keep my blog posts brief in favor of the all-important snuggles, floor playtime, and meals.

Do you write review on TripAdvisor? What food do you think defines the success of a restaurant or hotel? What is your top pick in Cork, Dublin, or Ireland for a place to visit, stay, dine? I’d love to hear from you!

What Gets Me Through the Week – Irish Packing List

When I packed to move to Ireland nearly four years ago, I got rid of all my Polo, Abercrombie, Hilfiger, and typically ‘American’ clothes and brought H&M stuff in the hope that I would fit in better. It intimidated me to be moving to Europe. Sure, it was Ireland and many pictured 40 shades of green in fields from shore-to-shore but I knew better. But I didn’t know best. After being here for a while, I missed my clothes and found I yearned to replace the things I got rid of. That v-neck brown lightweight sweater is still eluding me (I’m so sorry you went to Goodwill, my darling). Interesting to me, the preppy brands I wore most were seen as cool here. So, I guess I wish someone had told me to just be myself and pack what I wore most. Which leads me to think about what I wear the most that is true to my personal style while also suiting my daily life here in Cork City. Here’s a list of the items I use most on a weekly basis year-round (in case you haven’t caught on, there really isn’t summer here so much as some days that are warmer or sunnier and sometimes two will even happen sequentially!).

On cold days, my super warm fleece-lined but not bulky hooded Lands End Squall parka
On non-cold days, a Waxed Cotton Jacket

My Bean Boots (or good Wellies)
My knee-high Rockport leather boots
My Clarks Women’s Un.Glare Mary-Jane Flat (mine got me through Italy and France)

My zip-up fleece
Lightweight cardigans

Hair tamers to survive the wind and rain
Lightweight washable gloves
Lightweight washable hat, preferably handknit

Washable and reusable carrier totes (like this canvas one I designed and use daily) for groceries (there is a charge to get a plastic bag from stores here) plus my Built Neoprene Two-Bottle Wine Tote for Schlor, wine, or juice bottles
Hand moisturizer (my favorite is Burt’s Bees Hand Creme)

There are many other obvious things like tees, socks (I opt for knee-high argyle from October to April), hairbrush, umbrella (not that it would stand up on a lashing windy day) and the like. This list is just the stuff that when I can’t find I go searching for immediately.

If you’re visiting Cork City, you may want to pack these items:
• Comfortable walking shoes & socks
• A jacket and/or umbrella for the rain
• Clothing in layers to accommodate the capricious weather
• Local currency – We’re on the Euro
• Your camera
• Sunglasses, for when it’s not raining
• Large enough purse to fit the basics, zip-top is helpful given the rainy/windy climate

Visiting Washington, DC

I’m in Washington, DC for a visit and thought it might be helpful post to share links to old DC-related posts and suggest a few fun things and useful links for your own adventures in America’s capital city.

Visiting Seattle

Emerald City Itinerary

Seattle, Washington, is perched on the western coast of the United States and enjoys its Pacific Northwest weather to the fullest. Nine months of the year, it enjoys lush rain and in the summer months the sun is out most days. In the winter, the temperatures can drop below freezing, but snow accumulation is rare. June, July, and August are paradise with long hours of sunlight, moderate temperatures, and the occasional bout of rain.

Style

Casual, comfortable, and true to yourself seem to be the best ways to dress for Seattle. To keep up with the changing weather, layers are key. In general, those I know in Seattle don’t like to subscribe to labels and though they may have brand loyalty, style is very individual in the Emerald City.

Rain Gear

One thing that surprised me most is that few people carry umbrellas since the wind can flip one inside out quite easily, leaving it useless against the downpour. On my first visit to Seattle, I ended up out on a stormy night and took out my umbrella, feeling rather proud to have remembered it in the first place, only to have the storm laugh at the attempt and flip it backward then rip bits of it from their spokes. A raincoat is definitely the wise choice and helpful for a chilly day as much as a rain or blustery one. If you forget your raincoat, REI’s flagship store is among the many shops carrying durable outdoor gear.

My Short List

If I only am in Seattle for a long weekend, my priorities are seeing my friends and family, visiting Rachel at Pike Place Market, and eating at:

• Piroshky Piroshky

• HoneyHole Sandwiches

• Kingfish Cafe

• Monsoon

• Galerias Restaurant

However, if you want to do more than just eat while you are in Seattle, here is a six-day itinerary I cooked up that lets you see the city.

Day 1 – Welcome!

You have arrived in Seattle and are ready to start your vacation. Perhaps you arrived through the nearest airport, SeaTac, which is located closer to Tacoma than Seattle. You may have even driven yourself as part of a Pacific Northwest road trip vacation or arrived by train after a bit of railroad exploration. No matter your mode of transportation or budget level, Seattle has something for everyone.

If you want to stay in a social and budget-minded hostel, Seattle’s Green Tortoise Hostel (1525 2nd Ave.) is the place to be. It is located one block from Pike Place Market and close to most downtown attractions. Dormitory-style accommodations cost $23 to $25 per person per night. Private rooms are available for a single or couple for $48 and rooms accommodating three people cost $65 per night. Special offers for discounts are posted on their website. If you prefer to stay in an inn or B & B, focus your search on Capitol Hill or Madison Park. These neighborhoods have a more residential feel and historic architecture. For a standard hotel experience or a boutique hotel stay, there are scores of places within walking distance of Pike Place Market.

One thing to keep in mind while in Seattle is that summer is its time to shine. The slight, but nearly constant rainfall the rest of the year nourishes the city’s lush landscape to be emerald green. To get a feel for local music and the city’s passion for it, tune your radio to 90.3 FM, KEXP. It’s a listener-supported station that is known for its independent thinking and appreciation for up-and-coming and legendarily talented folk, blues, and alternative musicians.

Day 2 – Pike Place Market

Start your day at The Pike Place Market, a nine-acre gem and home of the first Starbucks. To get an overview of Pike Place Market’s history and what it has to offer, visit its website. With so many options, you will undoubtedly find a breakfast you’ll enjoy. Three Girls Bakery has wonderful baked goods or grab a Russian pastry from Piroshky Piroshky. They have delicious a smoked salmon piroshky that costs about $5 that has its pastry shell shaped like a fish. Both places cater to on-the-go eating with limited in-shop seating. Both bakeries are a good value and are located on Pike Place directly across from Pike Place Market.

Roam the shops of Pike Place Market. This is a historic and expansive market that embodies the spirit of Seattle – fresh, local, and friendly. There is something for everyone and many hidden hallways with curious and amazing items. Don’t forget to stop and admire the World-Famous Pike Place Fishmongers as the fish fly. The fresh seafood can be ice-packed and mailed or packed for your return travel so you can bring some real Pacific Northwest Salmon home with you. For a less perishable souvenir, buy some smoked salmon or a coffee mug. If you love fresh sausage, look for Uli’s Famous. His non-pork spicy sausage raises the standard for sausage. To check out his work, visit: http://www.ulisfamoussausage.com. Don’t forget to say hello to Rachel, the life-size piggy bank who stands guard near the World-Famous Pike Place Fish Market.

For a quick and casual lunch costing less than $10 per person, order up a sandwich and soda at Sound View Café, where my husband and I enjoyed our first date in tandem with a visit to Seattle Art Museum (aka SAM). There is an amazing view of Seattle’s Elliot Bay. If you don’t mind taking a little time to stop and smell the fresh air, dine at The Pink Door (1919 Post Alley, behind Piroshky Piroshky). It is not well-marked so just look for a peachy-pink door in the alley. It is closed on Mondays. Lunch ranges from $8 to $15.

Sit down for a casual, but elegant dinner at Alibi Room in Post Alley (85 Pike St.). The entrance is in an alcove of the brick alley somewhat beneath the World-Famous Pike Place Fish Market, so it’s not obvious to passerby, but worth seeking out. The portions always seem smaller on the plate than in your stomach. For something you will remember for years to come, try their Caesar salad to start and their “New Mac” as your main course. A full bar is available. Meals at Alibi Room cost less than $25 per person.

To enjoy a late-night pint, visit Owl ‘n Thistle in Post Alley. They have large screen TVs for big game nights, but also host live local music.

Day 3 – U District & Fremont

Go to the U. District and have your morning coffee and a bite at one of the eclectic bakeries then check out the Burke Museum. Admission to this museum on the University of Washington’s campus costs a few dollars, but once inside, you will enjoy a feast of Pacific Northwest art and artifacts.

Enjoy some shopping while in the U District. Be sure to check out Buffalo Exchange (4530 University Way NE), Newberry Books (4760 University Way NE), and Earth River Records Blue (4744 University Way). Earth River Records Blue has a huge upfront shelf selection and also an extensive stockroom so don’t be afraid to ask for something obscure since the staff is knowledgeable and friendly. If it reminds you a little bit of the record shop in High Fidelity, you’re not alone. If you prefer more commercial shops, such as those you’d find in your local mall, visit University Village. There you will find the Rosanna store. This shop carries the designs of Rosanna Bowles who specializes in household items, such as china. While at University Village, enjoy a cup of coffee at Zoka, a two café company that sticks close to its mission to make good coffee. Zoka’s menu and location information can be found on its website.

Head over to Fremont to enjoy lunch with a Caribbean flair at Paseo (4225 Fremont Ave N). Some say they have the best sandwiches on the planet, but you will have to decide that for yourself after dining at the HoneyHole on Day 3. Paseo is cash only and averages $25 or less per person for a full meal.

Drive to see the Fremont Troll and the statue of Lenin.

Then go to the neighborhood of Ballard to take visit the Hiram M. Chittenden Government Locks (3015 NW 54th St.). While in Ballard, visit the zany, retro, and eclectic Archie McPhee store (2428 NW Market St.). If you can’t get enough of the store while you’re there, you can shop online too!

Make your way back to Fremont for dinner at Bizarro (1307 N. 46th St.). An amazing Italian place with a quirky decor. If you are a group of six or more, it is a good idea to call ahead and get reservations. After dinner, have an imported beer at Brouwers Café (400 N. 35th St. at Phinney). With a wide selection of brews, this Flemish grand café has a beer to suit your taste.

Day 4 – Capitol Hill

Go to Fuel (610  19th Ave. E) on Capitol Hill for a cup of authentic Seattle coffee and a freshly baked something for breakfast. This place is one of a kind so you will be enjoying a genuine Seattle morning, but rest assured they also serve tea and a variety of other beverages. Pick up a copy of The Stranger or Seattle Weekly to peruse special events and activities taking place while you’re there. Both are free publications and readily available throughout Seattle.

Browse the unique shops on 15^th Avenue East and on Broadway then visit the Washington Park Arboretum located between the bottom east side of Capitol Hill and Madison Park.  If you’re there on the third Saturday of the month, enjoy the Ceremony in the Japanese Tea Garden at 1:30pm.

Have lunch at HoneyHole Sandwiches (703 East Pike St.). This little find is only for locals so appreciate the reasonable prices and funky décor. Every sandwich is a delicious experience. HoneyHole is open late and table service is available after 5pm when it takes on a nightlife vibe.

If you want a sit-down meal to remember, make reservations at: Kingfish Cafe (602 19th Ave. E), Monsoon (19th Ave. E), Galerias Restaurant (611 Broadway E).

As the day winds down and happy hour winds up, have drinks at Coastal Kitchen (429 15th Ave. E), Linda’s Tavern (707 E. Pine St.), or the Tiki-style Cha Cha Lounge (506 E. Pine St.). All three have happy hour and beer specials. Since they are in the top ten happy hour spots on Capitol Hill, these spots get crowded after 9pm so if you want a table, arrive early.

For the latest in best places to drink, eat, and be merry, check out the Capitol Hill Seattle Blog.

Day 5 – Music

Grab a booth at Hurricane Café (2230 7th Ave. near Denny) and order up a late breakfast. Arriving after the breakfast crowd and before the lunch-goers still leaves you with a potentially distracted server, but not having to wait for a table. Their coffee is not characteristic of Seattle’s reputation since it is not made to order, but otherwise their menu selection is fairly good. It’s main attraction is that it is open 24/7 and it isn’t overpriced. Breakfast there is under $10 per person.

Check out the Space Needle on the grounds of the Seattle Center, which was built for the 1962 World’s Fair. At 605 feet tall, it is a great navigation tool and a fun part of Seattle’s skyline. A ride to the top to enjoy the view from the observation deck costs $14 per adult.

Have late lunch around 1pm at one of the restaurants in nearby Belltown. If you like Japanese cuisine (not necessarily raw fish sushi), try Wasabi Bistro (2311 2nd Ave.). Menu items range from $2 to $12.

After lunch, your adventures in Seattle music begin. Take a tour of the Experience Music Project at Seattle Center. Admission is just under $20 per person with special events and shows as a separate admission fee.

That night, attend a musical performance. To Seattle residents, music is like water or air or organic food. Check out a venue’s calendar and if you see something you like, you have a plan for the evening. Showbox (1st & Pike by Pike Place Market) is a great venue that tends to host established musicians who still prefer the small club vibe. Chop Suey (1325 E. Madison) has shows nightly.

Day 6 – Alki

Sleep late recover from your night out on the town. After a cup of the nearest coffee, drive to Alki Point, which is southwest of downtown Seattle. Stroll along the promenade and enjoy a different view of the Seattle skyline. Explore the shore-front shops and bask in Seattle’s amazing summer weather. Have lunch at Bamboo Bar & Grill (2806 Alki Ave. SW). Bamboo has a delicious salmon and avocado sandwich.

Depart the Emerald City having had a glimpse into what it is like as a resident, not as a tourist.

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